Goat Care

Shelter

Minimum 3 sided shelter blocking the prevailing wind

Good ventilation

 

Diet

 

Hay should be offered free choice and in a hay feeder. DO NOT feed on the ground unless you want wormy goats. Goats are browsers and not the best grazers. Ideal grass/forage is at least 6 inches tall to help prevent parasite burden. Keeping hay in feeders goats cannot get their feet into also helps with parasite prevention.

 

Wethers and non milk producing goats  Ideal calcium to phosphorous ratio in the entire diet should be 2-4:1. Most grasses are high in phosphorous. Alfalfa is high in calcium. Look for tested hay that is balanced. I can occasionally find Orchard or Timothy hay here in Oregon with a correct Calcium to Phosphorus ratio. Goat specific grain is okay if balanced, but most wethers and non production animals do not need grain as adults. I feed a goat grain with Coccidia preventative until at least 6 months of age. Purina Goat Grower and Kalmbach Kid Start are two good ones that I have used.

 

Milkers

Free choice alfalfa/browse. Grain on milk stand. I prefer whole grains and high quality alfalfa. Alfalfa is high in calcium, and so it is a great feed for does in milk. My exact mix changes depending on availability and cost. Figure out your hay first, then add in your milk stand rations to supplement. High protein hay needs lower protein grains. Lower protein hay can benefit from a higher protein dairy goat ration.

 

Babies

Our kids have free choice pasteurized goat milk available 24/7 in a lambar bucket. Goats need a very MINIMUM of 20% of their body weight in milk in a 24 hour period. My system they are getting more than that. If you are transitioning a kid on free choice lambar, I have found more frequent meals until adjusted to your bottle feeding schedule is easiest on the goat. For best growth, I recommend milk until 16 weeks if possible. My keepers often get milk until 7 or 8 months if I am still milking and have milk. Babies are offered free choice Timothy or other balance grass hay, grain with Coccidia preventative, daily Calf Pro until eating feed with coccidiostat well, and loose minerals.

 

Minerals-offer free choice goat specific loose minerals. Most breeders in area use Sweetlix Meat Maker or Purina goat mineral for bucks/non lactating animals. Sweetlix magnum for milkers. Best to put out in small amounts. Mine tend to eat minerals better if they are fresh.

 

Water-Should be fresh, clean and available at all times. If you have high iron in your water, be aware this can cause mineral imbalances in your goats. Consider a water filter.

 

Vaccines-CDT vaccine yearly. Some give every 6 months. Please talk to your vet. I also give pneumonia vaccines to my show goats, and VIMCO to prevent staph A mastitis. (Although my understanding due to tariffs we will no longer have access to VIMCO in the states)

 

Parasites-I do fecals on my goats at least twice a year. I rarely have to treat for worms here, but I like to monitor my herd. Your vet can do fecals. Another cheaper option is sending fecals to Meadow Mist Lab. Meadow Mist has directions on their website about submitting samples and they will help you analyze your results. All goats have parasites. The goal is not zero. Worming on a schedule creates resistance. I haven't had much success with herbals. If you plan to try this, please use fecals to determine if they actually work for your herd.

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To prevent worm loads, feed all animals in feeders they cannot soil with their feet! Pasture rotation.

 

Vet

Always have a vet before you need one!

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Tips for bring in new goats

Parasite bloom and pneumonia-goats are at increased risk with stress of changing homes. Changing homes is stressful for goats. Transition their feed slowly. Goats transition better with friends their age. Familiarize yourself with the signs of pneumonia and parasite burden!!! Not a bad idea to get a fecal a week or two after arrival.